Between Shorelines and Clouds
(Notes from a Journey, June 2018)
This travelogue is a record of a brief journey that unfolded across diverse landscapes, cities, and skies, while also opening up inner spaces for reflection. It does not aim to guide or instruct, but to observe—how nature, history, infrastructure, science, and human presence quietly converse with a receptive mind.
On June 9th and 10th,
I visited Daman and Mumbai with my EE Nilabh ji; some of my experiences have
already been written about earlier. Here, I want to recall 10th June,
the day of returning to Delhi.
On the night of 9th June,
Nilabh and I stayed at Hotel Jajira, Moti Daman. Breakfast was taken at
the hotel around 10:40 AM; meanwhile, Steelcase’s Santosh Kumar had also
arrived. Earlier in the morning, we took a beach walk. The sea appeared to move
steadily toward the shore. By night, it retreats with the tide; by morning, it
seems to expand again.
It was an ecstatic morning at the
ocean, with heavy clouds covering the sky. In Mumbai, the monsoon had already
begun, and Daman is not far from it. The sun kept peeping through the clouds,
playing a continuous game of hide-and-seek. I felt quite in heaven; my sense of
vastness expanded—something that often happens in the presence of colossi like
the sea.
In the roar of the sea, I tried
to sing from my heart whatever came to mind:
देखते रहो, समुद्र को तुम, इतना
विशाल देखते रहो
समुद्र किनारे बीच पर कल
शाम दूर तक पत्थरों को देखते रहो
I
कुछ देर तो आत्मसात होऊँ, पर समुद्र की दहाड़ में मेरी आवाज़ गुम हो जाती
मेरे राम, मुझको भी बना दो कुछ तो महान
कर दो मेरे मन को विभोर, मैं तो बहुत अदना सा हूँ तेरी विशालता के समक्ष I
(Keep watching the ocean, witness its vastness endlessly.
Along the shore, watch the stones scattered far and wide.
For a while, I try to merge, but my voice is lost in the ocean’s roar.
O Lord, make me something great too;
Fill my heart with awe, for I am so small before your immensity.)
Lofty thoughts emerged naturally.
I dipped my feet in the seawater, picked up snails & shells, admiring their
beauty. The stone beach was rugged & difficult to tread; in pockets, clear
water collected. I picked some water and drenched my head & body, trying to
feel that vastness more fully.
I experienced this vastness
within me, too. My parents’ ashes had once met this ocean through the Ganga. My
forefathers, too, had merged with this immensity. I felt myself a tiny part of
cosmic vastness. I breathed air that had travelled far distances, my hair
waving in happiness. I went a little deeper, but the sea retracted & then
rushed again toward the shore.
Nilabh came closer. We spoke
about the sea, water, snails, rocks, and human littleness. I recorded the live
movement of snails in clear water—creatures complete in themselves. Their upper
shells were rugged, almost like pieces of stone. Dead shell deposits lay
scattered on the rocks, though I could not gauge their ages.
Two young women in their late twenties
stood nearby, with a little girl of five or six. The child hesitated near the
water, while the elders appreciated the beauty more freely. I guessed one was
her mother and the other a maternal aunt. I spoke gently with the little girl,
trying to add some warmth to the atmosphere.
I took photographs of the clouds
over the sea, some selfies too. Today, when I look at them, I can return to
those moments. Mobile cameras are handy tools; they allow us to preserve
fleeting experiences. I had taken some snail shells to the hotel, but found one
still alive & moving. I returned it to the sea—it felt right. Saving one
life is good, though ultimately, all have to perish.
After writing a little in my
diary, we had breakfast. I wore a red-blue-white chequered shirt, and we left Hotel
Jajira for the next journey and proceeded to Daman Fort. Coconut
trees lined the road. The city is developing, populated mainly by Gujaratis and
some original inhabitants. Earlier, under Portuguese rule, Daman became part of
India in 1961.
Crossing the Daman Ganga
bridge, we reached the fort with its thick defensive walls. The Portuguese had built the fort to defend
against Mughal incursions. Nowadays, it houses the office of the Commissioner,
Daman Administration, under India’s Union Territory governance.
We then reached the ferry point.
Along with Santosh and driver Robin, we took a 15-minute boat ride in a
kerosene-powered boat—an ecstatic experience. Baskets hanging in the water were
explained as fish traps. The Daman Ganga River separates Moti Daman from
Nani Daman; the city lies about 23 km from NH-8.
The merging of river & sea
always amazes me. Backwaters intrude far inland before slowly mixing. Sea water
is saline, river water fresh—Amitav Ghosh has beautifully described this
phenomenon observed in Sundarbans at the confluence of Hooghly & Brahmaputra
rivers with the Bay of Bengal in his famous novel ‘The Hungry Tide’.
From there, we travelled roughly 200
km to Mumbai by taxi. Greenery spread across the landscape. The mango
season was at its peak. Daman & Silvassa are famous for delicious Alphonso
mangoes. We stopped at roadside
stalls on the way, with orchards visible behind, bearing fruit of great value,
and tasted & bought some mangoes.
In the way, we stopped at Lonavala
Chikki, near Anam Restaurant, where we had eaten the previous day.
Around 4:00 PM, we halted at Delhi Darbar Inn, Manor—grand in
appearance, elegant in ambience, though the food was average.
Approaching Mumbai, high-rise buildings dominated the skyline. Each visit reveals further development. Roads are narrow due to land constraints; metro lines pass overhead. Numerous overbridges ease congestion. Dharavi’s slum cluster appeared dense with humanity. From afar, the towers looked like stacked matchboxes. Coastal humidity accelerates corrosion; the painting & anti-corrosive coating industry thrives here. Steel reinforcement requires protection, yet maintenance costs remain high.
Entering Chhatrapati Shivaji
International Airport, the approach itself felt scenic—palm trees, hedges,
and a well-maintained median lining the road. Hoardings & nearby hotels
like Marriott marked the area clearly. Our driver Robin, a Nepali
married to a local Christian woman, had been working with Steelcase’s Bhuttas
for years.
The airport interior appeared
grand & thoughtfully designed. Large columns widened gracefully toward the
ceiling, carrying intricate artwork. The sense of investment & care was
visible everywhere—floors, railings, lighting, and spatial planning.
We descended via escalators to a
lower level, where greenery lined the sides. Small potted plants placed in
structured stands resembled a green wall. Similar attempts at integrating
greenery can be seen in Delhi as well, especially near the Yamuna bridge at
Sarai Kale Khan.
On the lower floor, different
ceiling patterns appeared—petal-like forms with lights embedded between them. A
gallery of antique wooden, stone, and metal doors stood on display, along with
artifacts & artworks. Standing there, I felt minuscule before the human
genius that had imagined & built such spaces, filled with quiet amusement &
gratitude.
We waited to board Air India
660, Airbus A320, seat 16B, Gate 42B, Terminal T2. The
flight, originally at 6:00 PM, departed at 7:00 PM. As we lifted, I saw
vast slum clusters below—perhaps Dharavi—each life deserving dignity.
Above the clouds, the sun shone
pale yellow. To the west, it glowed; to the east, darkness gathered. Colours
shifted—pale, dark, yellow, white. From this height, the concept of time felt
relative. Moving westward delays sunset; moving east hastens it—relative motion
at play, as described by Stephen Hawking in The Grand Design. The
sun appears to move, though it is Earth that rotates.
We flew at about 9–10 km
above Earth. Below, clouds resembled a sea; above, sunlight streamed through
the window. Gradually, the sun disappeared from view. At around 8:30 PM,
only a yellow streak remained on the horizon. Lightning flickered within
clouds—caused by electrical charge separation—illuminating the sky.
Dinner was served, though I ate little. We landed in Delhi around 9:00 PM. Nilabh dropped me at Dwarka. I shared the experience with family, feeling contentment.
Journeys are great teachers; we must be good students to learn from them. Journeys are great teachers; we need patience to learn what they offer.
Pawan Kumar,
Brahmpur (Odisha), 21st
January, 2026, Tuesday, Time 9.29 A.M.
(From my Diary, dated 22 & 24 July 2018, Sunday &
Tuesday)